Knowledge What are the recommended needle and thread specifications for different types of Goodyear welted shoes?
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Tech Team · 3515

Updated 2 months ago

What are the recommended needle and thread specifications for different types of Goodyear welted shoes?

The recommended needle and thread specifications for Goodyear welted shoes vary based on the shoe type and construction method. For heavy work shoes with through stitching, a larger needle (Size 43) and thicker thread (9s Coretex 4M) are used to handle the robust materials and stitching demands. Medium/heavy shoes without through stitching require slightly smaller needles (Size 45) and threads (6s Coretex 5M), while light or women's shoes use even finer needles (Size 47) and threads (6s Coretex 5M) to accommodate delicate materials. The bobbin thread remains consistent (Coats EcoVerde Dual Duty) across all types, ensuring durability and flexibility in the stitching process.

Key Points Explained:

  1. Heavy Work Shoes with Through Stitching:

    • Needle Size: 43 (larger to penetrate thick leather and multiple layers)
    • Awl Size: 45 (matches needle size for clean hole creation)
    • Needle Thread: 9s Coretex 4M (thicker thread for high stress areas)
    • Bobbin Thread: Coats EcoVerde Dual Duty (durable and flexible for hidden stitches)
    • Why? Heavy work shoes require robust stitching to withstand wear and tear, especially in areas like the welt and sole attachment.
  2. Medium/Heavy Shoes Without Through Stitching:

    • Needle Size: 45 (balances strength and precision)
    • Awl Size: 47 (slightly smaller for less dense materials)
    • Needle Thread: 6s Coretex 5M (medium thickness for durability without bulk)
    • Bobbin Thread: Coats EcoVerde Dual Duty (consistent performance)
    • Why? These shoes still need strong stitching but don’t require the extreme thickness of heavy work shoes, making a slightly finer setup ideal.
  3. Light/Women’s Shoes:

    • Needle Size: 47 (finer for delicate leathers and smaller stitches)
    • Awl Size: 50 (smaller to avoid damaging thin materials)
    • Needle Thread: 6s Coretex 5M (same as medium/heavy, but used for finer work)
    • Bobbin Thread: Coats EcoVerde Dual Duty (maintains stitch integrity)
    • Why? Lighter materials and smaller stitch patterns demand precision tools to maintain elegance while ensuring longevity.
  4. Thread Selection Rationale:

    • Coretex Thread: Known for its strength and resistance to abrasion, making it ideal for shoe construction.
    • Coats EcoVerde Dual Duty: A versatile bobbin thread that complements the needle thread without adding unnecessary bulk.
  5. Needle and Awl Sizing Logic:

    • Larger needles and awls are used for thicker materials to prevent breakage and ensure clean stitching.
    • Smaller sizes are reserved for finer work where precision and minimal material disruption are key.
  6. Consistency in Bobbin Thread:

    • Using the same bobbin thread across all types simplifies the stitching process while maintaining durability and flexibility in the finished product.
  7. Application to Goodyear Welt Construction:

    • The welt stitching must be strong enough to hold the sole and upper together, hence the variation in needle and thread sizes based on shoe type.
    • The bobbin thread’s role is to lock stitches securely without compromising the shoe’s flexibility or comfort.

By matching needle and thread specifications to the shoe type, manufacturers ensure that Goodyear welted shoes meet both durability and aesthetic standards, whether they’re rugged work boots or elegant women’s footwear.

Summary Table:

Shoe Type Needle Size Awl Size Needle Thread Bobbin Thread
Heavy Work (Through Stitch) 43 45 9s Coretex 4M Coats EcoVerde Dual Duty
Medium/Heavy (No Through) 45 47 6s Coretex 5M Coats EcoVerde Dual Duty
Light/Women’s Shoes 47 50 6s Coretex 5M Coats EcoVerde Dual Duty

Ensure your Goodyear welted shoes meet the highest standards of durability and craftsmanship with the right needle and thread specifications. At 3515, we specialize in producing premium footwear for distributors, brand owners, and bulk buyers, offering a comprehensive range of shoes and boots tailored to your needs. Whether you require rugged work boots or elegant women’s footwear, our expertise ensures every stitch is perfect.

Contact us today to discuss your manufacturing needs and let us help you create footwear that stands the test of time. Get in touch now!

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